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This Canseco is a junk wax rookie, yes, but limited to 5000 and is Topps Tiffany so it can't exactly be lumped in with say, the Ken Griffey Jr Upper Deck card.

But I do think most the other points are valid Boner.

In a nutshell, more study is required before doing anything. At this point I am pretty much taking the word of Sportscards Pro website which seems to do a good enough job of the market fluctuations for me. It isn't perfect by any means, but pretty useful to understand demand. Understanding what they're worth will determine what if anything I'll do.

I imagine I will end up with 20-30 cards I want graded. Still have a long way to go to dig through it all.
 
Im sure they secure ship in a penny sleeve, taped top loader, cardboard, bubble mailer. Anything can happen but ive lost stuff at a rate of like 1/50 from ebay sellers (and this is a professional org with a reputation to uphold).

Plus, $20 is cheap. I saw a bunch of former and current Yanks signing locally for $75-150 recently (though in person so its meet and sign).

The Tiffany raw is anywhere from $25-60. Looks like the traded auto no real grade is $70.

But I guess prob not worth the auto unless you think it's a 9 or 10. If it was you could go from $45 raw to a 9 auto (maybe $300 min?) for a cost of $75 (auto, and grading).
 
The market for 9s has dropped quite a bit in recent years. Most people will either pay a premium for a 10 OR buy ungraded, which they are happy with as is or might dream of getting graded a 10.

8 will sell for the same or less than raw, and 9 will sell for a bit more but often not enough to cover the cost of grading. In today's game it's really only worth grading if you've got a legit shot at a 10, IMO.
 
I think it's even more fucked than that - raw prices are usually close to that of PSA 9. An 8 is a bust, usually goes for less than a raw card that has good clear photos on eBay.

I think a lot of 8s are mild surface issues that could've been prevented by a quick wipe of the card before submitting. But yeah grading is far from an exact science.
 
Cougar Bait
So this one is interesting since I have virtually no other Topps Tiffany cards.

The value between a PSA 9 and 10 is considerable.

Not sure where it falls. Centering seems right on, 4 sharp corners, no visual flaws that I can see. Boner, any idea if it's a 9 or a 10? You are poster of the year now and it comes with certain responsibilities :lmao:

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I’ve been collecting since 71, so I have more than a few.

Now the question of the grade on this - I’m guessing a 7-8. The edge on the front near the top is rough. Looking at the back here, see the white on the edge above 20T? I’m guessing the cutting blade was starting to dull. The centering on the back is off-center (OC) also, Probably a 7, doubt you’ll want to grade it.
 
Vegas Dave
The market for 9s has dropped quite a bit in recent years. Most people will either pay a premium for a 10 OR buy ungraded, which they are happy with as is or might dream of getting graded a 10.

8 will sell for the same or less than raw, and 9 will sell for a bit more but often not enough to cover the cost of grading. In today's game it's really only worth grading if you've got a legit shot at a 10, IMO.
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The flippers really flooded the market with junk slabs in gambling on 10’s.

I may have 10 graded cards tops, most are autographed, bought them for the authenticity of the signature. I will free them out of their slab soon.
 
Cougar Bait
Thanks FW

Appreciate the input
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Never hurts to look on eBay and see what dealers are asking for.7s and 8’s from that set. One thing to remember with grading is it is much harder to get a 10 from something 30+ years ago than now. They seem to grade harder on older cards for whatever reason. Personally i value centering more than corners as it just displays better IMO.
 
Well, decided to stop by the local shop

$125 later I bought this

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