Motorcycling Thread for MrX, Matty, and I

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Blitty

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We are certifiably certified boys!!!!


The girl in my class cried again. She still passed the test with a 20/21.

0 is perfect. 21 is Fail.
 
I rode to Guelph (~60 miles west of TO) yesterday to surprise the woman who was riding the bus there to meet with her sister and mom. Grave mistake.

The weather went from 7 degrees and sun to 1 degree and fokken snow. I had to stop twice on the way to thaw my shins and fingers.

That'll teach me to leave the confines of downtown Toronto.

:moped:
 
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BTW well done blissterballs. :clap: What's the next step? You buying a bike?
 
I'm familiar with Guelph, Marty. I went to a hockey camp there 6 years ago or so.

Riding in the winter seems miserable. Figure I'll wait a few months to buy something. Suppose I'll constantly be browsing in case I come across some smoking deal in the mean time..
 
Yah, good plan.

I'm still riding to work. It's perfectly fine inside the city, at city speeds. Highway is miserable indeed.
 
After talking to a few people in class it seems like a 600 is good for me :dunno:

I'm still confused by all the options. I just don't want to get a beater that I have to replace parts on. Like you did lol.

Would rather pay a bit more for something more recent that's dependable.

What do you think?
 
You can't see the snowflakes on this pic. Nor my frozen balls.

iiopJXs.jpg


What a machine.
 
How often do you use the choke on that bad boy?
 
After talking to a few people in class it seems like a 600 is good for me :dunno:

I'm still confused by all the options. I just don't want to get a beater that I have to replace parts on. Like you did lol.

Would rather pay a bit more for something more recent that's dependable.

What do you think?

Yah, if you don't plan on wrenching, avoid the sub-$3k market.

And I agree that a newish 600cc is your best bet. Something like a FZ6R ($4-5k) or a mid-2000's R6 could last you a long time. Actually, any mid-2000's 600cc by Honda/Suzuki/Yamaha/Kawasaki is going to be a great first bike that you can keep for several seasons. They're all pretty much the same.

The early 2000's Honda CBR600F's (F2, F3, F4 & F4i) are popular but they tend to get abused and used as cheap track bikes. You're gonna run into problems with those, prolly best to avoid them if you really don't want to do your own maintenance/repairs.
 
How often do you use the choke on that bad boy?

Once a day, first start of the morning. These air-cooled bikes stay warm for a long time after you get them going.

:moped:
 
http://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/mcy/4183860074.html
http://newyork.craigslist.org/brx/mcy/4176774235.html
http://newyork.craigslist.org/que/mcy/4136185517.html

BTW get an insurance quote before you go look at a bike. It's an integral part of the purchase price. The supersports (Honda CBR600RR, Kawasaki ZX-6R, Suzuki GSX-R600, Yamaha R6) tend to be much more expensive to insure than their standard counterparts (Kawasaki Ninja 650, Yahama FZ6R, Suzuki GSX650F). The latter group is quite a bit less powerful (70-something horsepower vs. 100-125 for the supersports) but still fast, and the seating position is more upright. My bike is like those.

70hp will see you outaccelerate all traffic outside of supercars. 125hp will beat just about anything over a straight line.

:moped:
 
The quote varies wildly between bikes?

The instructor said I could save 10% on my bike AND auto insurance by sending in my certificate. Basically pays for class.
 
Between bike types, and insurers.

BTW I'm insured with State Farm and they didn't give a crap about my certificate.

Also, SF rates are based on engine displacement, so if you get a supersport they are most likely going to be your cheapest option. (Then again you probably have access to different insurers that don't do business up here, so ignore my advice and just get as many quotes as you can. They will vary wildly from one insurer to the next.)
 
No.

BTW if you have a car it's pretty much a no-brainer - ask your car insurer to bundle car + motorcycle.